Twenty-four hours usually does the trick. Very fresh instant pictures do not peel very well because the layer of chemicals (the white stuff) is still wet so make sure your pictures are dry before peeling. That edge is also tougher and less apt to rip apart during the manipulation process. I prefer to leave a little bit of white on because your emulsion will have a distinct edge to it that makes a nice border. Some sites recommend trimming the sides off so that there’s no white left. Then prepare your picture for the process by trimming the sides and peeling it apart, like this Pretty simple.įill your pan with the hottest water you dare to dip your fingers in to. You’ll need a pan to hold some hot water, scissors, watercolor paper and a paintbrush. I’m waiting to use my best pictures until I get better at doing this. I have used all kinds of images for this process from pictures with well-defined subjects to abstract, badly-exposed, crystallized shots. I’ve used TIP’s Color and Monochrome films for my projcets because I’m saving my last packs of Polaroid SX-70 for manipulation. It will NOT work with the new Fuji Instax format (it’s integral film) and I haven’t had any luck with Polaroid 600 film either, although you can do negative transfers with this film (that’s a process I haven’t tried yet). This technique doesn’t work with all films. Go check it out because it’s really, really cool and filled with creative images and ideas. My instructions are modified from eggzalky’s blog No Such Thing as a Wasted Polaroid. It’s a lot easier than it looks, so bust out some of your not-so-favorite instant film pictures and practice until you’re proficient. Here’s a step-by-step of my new favorite technique, the instant film emulsion lift.
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